The Season of Entertaining
When the weather turns and the light fades early, I find myself drawn back to the table — to setting it, filling it, and gathering around it. My favorite thing to do, always, is cook for others. There’s a certain joy in planning a dinner party — choosing what to serve, setting the mood, and watching people relax into conversation with that first sip of something wonderful.
I have a bit of a habit—perhaps even a ritual. So often, an evening begins with one small spark of inspiration: a soup terrine discovered in an antique shop, a piece of cheese that catches my eye, or the way a candle flickers just so on the table. Those small details become the beginning of my dinner story. From there, the menu unfolds naturally — soft French cheese with drunken fruit, braised sausage with caraway, warm crusty bread, roasted chestnut soup, and a good bottle of something shared — perhaps a pour of our Justin Girardin 1er Le Beauregard Cru Santenay, whose warmth and quiet depth always seem to complete the evening. Before long, the night has taken on a life of its own.
Entertaining, for me, has always been about that simple pleasure of making others feel welcome and cared for — of saying, I’m glad you’re here. Whether I’m at Registry or at home, the most meaningful moments always seem to happen when everyone’s leaning in, laughing, and reaching for another bite, another story.
And whatever you’re pouring this season - I hope it’s shared in good company, around a table filled with warmth, laughter, and the kind of food that invites you to linger just a little longer.
Drunken Fruit
This is a condiment I make often, and I’m never without a jar of it tucked in my refrigerator. It’s incredibly versatile, lovely spooned over soft cheeses, stirred into pan sauces for roasted pork, or even spread onto a leftover turkey sandwich the next day.
The fruit changes with the seasons — and my whim — but the method stays the same. The fruit is gently simmered in whatever wine I have open, with a touch of marmalade and fresh herbs, until it becomes glossy and tender, just on the edge of preserving. It’s one of those simple kitchen luxuries that adds depth and warmth wherever it lands.
Ingredients
2 cups mixed dried fruits (my winter mix: blueberries, diced figs, cranberries, and black currants)
¼ cup orange marmalade
2 bay leaves
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs rosemary
Red wine, enough to just cover the fruit
2 Tbsp whole-grain mustard (optional)
Juice of ½ lemon (optional)
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Method
1. Make a small bundle with the thyme and rosemary and tie with twine so it’s easy to remove later. (If you don’t have fresh herbs, dried will work — the flavor will be a little more rustic but still delicious.)
2. In a small saucepan, combine all ingredients except the mustard, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
3. Bring to a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching.
4. Simmer for about 30 minutes, until the wine has reduced by roughly three-quarters and the fruit is plump and glossy.
5. Remove from heat and stir in the whole-grain mustard.
6. Spread the mixture on a shallow platter or pan and refrigerate until cooled, about 1 hour.
7. Once chilled, remove the bay leaves and the herb bundle.
8. Add lemon juice if needed — especially if you’ve skipped the cranberries — to balance the sweetness.
9. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
10. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Roasted Chestnut Soup
This is a dish I’ve been making for more than twenty years, and it’s evolved a bit with each winter. It’s a relatively simple soup — just a few ingredients and not much time — yet the flavor is wonderfully deep and complex. It can easily be made vegan or dairy-free, though I often indulge and make it with butter and cream.
Chestnuts are now easy to find roasted and peeled in winter at most gourmet shops, but I still love roasting them myself. It’s a small ritual — cutting an “X” on the bottom of each shell and roasting until they split — that fills the kitchen with warmth and a faint sweetness. Peeling them can be a family project, and I swear the soup tastes even better when more hands have helped. (If you skip the scoring step, however, your oven will sound like a battlefield — I learned that lesson the hard way.)
Ingredients
2 Tbsp unsalted butter or neutral oil (such as avocado oil)
½ cup chopped yellow onion
4 garlic cloves, crushed
6 sprigs fresh thyme, tied in a bundle
1 bay leaf
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth, ham broth, or vegetable broth enriched with a spoonful of miso
1 lb roasted and peeled chestnuts
1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
3 Tbsp cold unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil (for vegan/dairy-free)
Pinch (or four rasps) of freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
1 cup heavy cream (optional)
3 Tbsp dry sherry or brandy
2 Tbsp minced chives or parsley, for garnish
Method
1. In a heavy saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the onion and cook slowly until translucent, then stir in the garlic.
2. Add the thyme, bay leaf, broth, and chestnuts. Simmer gently for about 1 hour.
3. If using cream, whip it to soft peaks. Stir in the sherry and season lightly with salt and pepper. Chill until serving time.
4. Remove the herb bundle and bay leaf. Transfer the soup to a blender and purée until smooth.
If preparing vegan or dairy-free, drizzle in olive oil during blending and add the sherry directly to the soup instead of the cream.
5. Return the soup to the stove and warm gently over low heat. Whisk in the cold butter, add nutmeg, and season with salt and pepper. Do not boil.
6. To serve, spoon a little of the whipped cream into each bowl or terrine, then pour the hot soup over it — the cream will rise to the surface as it melts. Garnish with chives or parsley and serve immediately, preferably with warm crusty bread.
Until next time — from my table to yours.
Chef Erika Rapp
Registry Bistro | Toledo, Ohio